Hampi Diaries

Years back, I missed joining the Hampi trip with my friends, since then, I had wanted to visit Hampi. After all how could I miss the World heritage site recognized by UNSECO. The historic town that acclaims to be the “World’s Largest Open-air Museum”. This time it was with my best friend, my mum who agreed to accompany me. After a long time we both were to go for a trip along with a Travel group The Travelbug.

Our train journey begun from Margao railway station. We were quite excited and we had the instructions, from the tour guides to which platform the train would arrive. It was after around 9 years that I was taking an over night train journey, some old memories were popping up, the hiss of the train engine, the long horn approaching and disappearing in the distance, set in a sense of nostalgia. With time, things change and so was I taken back hypnotized by the rhythmic sounds of the moving train.

Day I

We arrived at Hubli at around 4:00 am, from where we took a bus to Hospet, we were a group of 44 people and 2 buses were arranged to fit us all. It was a 3 hour journey to the hotel and I was still a sleepy head. As it brightened the sunrise was beautifully shone along the awesome boulder-strewn landscape. We checked in the hotel In Hospet, got fresh and headed back in the bus for our sight-seeing. The excitement caused us to forget that we had a little sleep earlier.

Mahanavmi dibbi : is where we began. It’s a prominent structure with an elevated platform. Different cultural festivals were held before this platform, where the king and the Royal familes would take its seat to have a distinct view of the same. The structure on all the 4 sides have sculptures depicting animals, royal portraits, foreign travelers, trades, hunting scenes etc. Unlike today, in the olden times people would carve in stone, capturing the essence of daily life activities. Hampi once being the magnificent capital of the mighty Vijayanagara Empire along the banks of the river Tungabhadra, one can witness a wide array of activities carved around here.

The Step well : Was said to be for the royals, it was an astonishing symmetrical 4 sided step well that descends to a base. It left me wondering, how did they manage to get the perfect geometry here. There were stone canals made, so that the water from the river get directed in to the Step well. In the vicinity was also the public, that acted as a big pool. For what one comes to see the various ways used for water storage. I could only imagine these tanks filled with pristine water and the area to be cool. But unfortunately, those wells and big storage places are currently dry, now you would see a lot of geckos around, reminding you some desert scenes.

Walking through the place, we came across an underground secret chamber carved in stone, one could get in there, it was quite interesting, we had to switch on the torches in the enclosures, I was wondering in the older times it might have been the torches of fire that would light up this place.

The Hazaara Ramachamdra temple : Inside the temple there are noticeably pitch black polished pillars, and making them standout amongst the others. These stones were particularly having its 4 sides with carvings depicting the scenes of Ramayana. Back then, only the priest and the Royals knew to read and write. Hence, the pillars with the carvings would assist the rest to learn the mythological stories.

The Lotus mahal : The place around the Lotus Mahal was well guarded with dilapidated pillars. One finds a water storage tank, and a small stage like platform too. As per the local guide that we were accompanied with, back then the during the times of war, the Queens and ladies were housed in this place. The Lotus Mahal, had internal plastering with tiny visible openings which were pipes used then to allow water to circulate and thus allow cooling to occur. It is quite beyond my imagination, but I would like to think how cool that architect would have been to think of such a mind blowing hack.

The Elephant Stable: we walked next towards a big Parking area for the elephants. Lined up with a group of chambers with high arched enclosures and internal doors to move across. Adjacently close to the Elephant Stable is the Guards House, it is rectangular courtyard, enclosed with a high arched verandah, for the owners of the elephants to reside.

The Queens Bath : this was one of the interesting places to see. The square structure is visibly of an Indo Islamic style. Enclosed with corridors and a flight of stairs to enter the pool. The pathways carved for the water to enter the pool, Surrounded with balconies, where probably the musicians would sit with their instruments was all so cool.

Next, we headed for lunch in a nearby restaurant. where we were served with a hot thali on the banana leaf, along with other specialties’ that one could opt for. Later the bus road us to halt at the entrance of the Talavaraghatta Gate, where we got off and took a walk towards the Vitthala temple.

Vitthala Temple : happens to be the most important highlight of the trip to hampi. The core of the temple was in existence from the times of Devaraya II. The kings later continued with the extention of the premises, which included the additions by the king Krishnadevaraya.  Apart from the main shrine, the courtyard has Utsava mandapa, Kalayana mandapa, Devi shrine, the pillared mantapa and the much-famed Stone Chariot which is known as the Garuda shrine. The shrines are adorned with carvings of horses, camels, elephants etc. that were traded in those times. The shrine area is erected by the enormous musical pillars. I liked to imagine the musicians at all the pillars orchested in harmony, the dancers performing, the place lit up with the oil lamps lined along the notchs of the shrine would have made a magnificent event.

The Garuda Chariot: The main temple is dedicated to the mythological Lord Vishnu, who’s vehicle was the Eagle Garuda. Therefore the Garuda chariot shrine was before the temple. The Garuda chariot shrine is the one which has its image on the 50 Rupee Indian currency note. The Chariot has 4 wheels with meticulous carvings, it houses the image of Garuda. As of now the chariot is fixed, but in times earlier, it would be moved on special occasions. Earlier, a brick structural extension was over the chariot, which probably dilapidated as time passed. We then had to walk towards the Tungabhadra River, where there were lush green plantations, and a massive Banyan tree along the way. Finally, we reached the place where we took the joy of the coracle ride, Coracle is a saucer shaped bamboo boat. On either side of the river were the spectacular monuments. We could see the monolithic Bull (Nandi) carved high in the stones and facing the more than a 1000 Shiv lingas across. There are tiny temples, a pillared shrine carved for meditation, small caves etc. It was so lovely to find little carvings everywhere around this river. My mum was skeptical to sit in the coracle, but she was sporty enough to try it out. We could as well spot the famous balancing rock on the hill top. The Coracle rower was also a guide who informed us about the monuments around. I’d request to whoever visits here don’t forget to be generous and kind to these locals, it is tuff job to row those spherical boats against the currents of the rivers.

Next we walked towards the parking area where our bus was parked. Eduru Basavanna (the  Huge Monolithic bull) faced the Virupaksha Temple, is along the base of the Matanga hill. Many of our tour mates climbed The Matanga hill which is also famous as the sunset point.

We returned to our hotel in Hospet, where we freshened up and went around for dinner. Me and mum enjoyed our day 1 and wholesome dinner before a sound sleep. The next morning, we had to wake up and be ready by 8:00 for out next destination.

Day II

We were up early and excited, we also had Lucky, our guide to ring the bell and wake us up, that was really nice of him. We had breakfast and got in the bus to head towards our next destination.

The Narasimha shrine : One of the prominently huge sculpted monuments in Hampi. It is seated on the coils of large Sesha Naga (snake), the seven headed hood of the snake canopies above the head of the Deity. Many parts of this structure are destroyed, but even then, what we are left is with a piece of admirable artwork.

The Badavi Linga: is beside the Narasimha Shrine. It is a huge linga, with the lower part remaining submerged in the water throughout the year. A small canal was made underground, where standing still one can hear the water flowing from the river Tungabhadra towards the Linga.

The Sasive Kalu Ganesha: was the monument where the bus took us next. The monument is enclosed under flat roof. An Inscription found on the boulder near the Mantapa states this is made by the merchants from Andhra Pradesh, and is dated back to 16^th Century AD. Continuing the path towards the Vithalla temple, we came across the Hemakuta hill and Hemakuta group of temples. About 30 temples varying shapes and sizes situated here are dated back from 9^th – 16^th Century AD. Hear we found the Mula Virupaksha Temple, mythologically Lord Shiva meditated here and later moved to the present day Virupaksha temple that is right across where we too followed next. I must tell you, one needs good physical fitness to walk around the place, after all it is a vast kingdom that we were walking across. Team Travelbug were considerate enough to inform prior us about the long walking routes, recommending walking shoes etc.

Virupaksha temple : As we descended the Hemakuta Hillock, we reached the most famous Virupaksha temple. It is a vast complex enclosed with numerous subsidiary shrines. Hear as well one sees the musical pillars, Anusha our Travelbug buddy, guided us to see the inverted shadow of the main Gopura in an enclosed area inside the temple. It was fun to hear the people trying to decode the surprising observation. Yea! One is left to wonder how did these people in the times back then were able to create marvels that leave us mesmerized till date. A narrow water channel is drawn from the Tungabhadra River that flows along the roof of the temple premises, descending towards the temple kitchen. Finally flowing out through the other end to join the river again. You see, this sorted the supply of water in the temple premises for cooking and other activities. The Ranga manatapa area at this temple has the colorful seilings carvings that depict the procession of sages and the 10 incarnations of Vishnu. The colors in those times were made by extractions of pigments from plant and fruits etc. it is a beautiful sight to devour.

The Vijayanagara Empire at its peak was a prosperous city, traders from across the world would flock and fill up the hampi Bazaar (Market) one would still witness the prosperity in the stories that have been carved and preserved for us to evoke memories of the magnificent bygone era. today it remains as city of desolation. However, the ruins of the historical monuments across this city have withstood the ravages of man and time.

“The city is such that the pupil of the eye has never seen a place like it, and the ear of intelligence has never been informed that there existed anything to equal it in the world”

15th century Persian Ambassador, Abdul Razaak.

Badami Caves: We got back in the bus to our next destination, the Badami caves that was aprox 140 kms from Hampi. Badami, the onetime capital of the Chalukyas, has several temples in this place. The famous Badami caves is the group of 4 cave temples carved out of the hill opposite Badami fort. I was marveled even by the colour and shades of the stone here, against the clear blue sky, it was brick red, with shades of black in between, and we had arrived at the golden hour of the evening sunlight for this picturesque sight. It took us a flight of nearly 2000 steps to reach the topmost cave. Cave 1 is the Shaivite cave. The important carvings in this cave are an 18-armed dancing Shiva, a two-handed Ganesha, Mahishasura Mardini and many more. Cave 2 has Vaishnavite influence. Continuing the flight of stairs took us to the third cave which is the largest. Cave 4 has the Jain carvings with an image of Mahavira in the sanctum. As one takes the stairs, to the left is the view of the Badami Agasthya lake with the Bhootnath temple at its banks. If one sees right across, on the opposite mountain, is the standalone Badami Shivalaya Temple. One has to be careful with their belongings here as there are monkeys all around the place, looking out for some food and mischief.

from where we headed back to Hubli, approx. 103 kms, it was nice and peaceful evening time approaching the station, crossing the vast sunflower fields on the way. People in my bus were enthusiastic, by now we were familiar to each other. We all made a group of happy Hampi travelers singing and dancing in the bus along the way, reminding me of my college day trips. I must say the trip was amazingly planned by Team Travelbug, with Coordinators Anusha and Lucky who where very considerate about everyone’s needs. It was our 1^st experience with this group and it was amazing, I would highly recommend anyone to join these people for their well organized trips, they truly assure a great experience. Along with the youngsters’ group, were families and it was motivating to see some elderly with a young heart travelling along. the trip ended We all shared lovely memories, captured in the photographs and sweet memories of our interactions.

For well planned, hassle free trips do check out Travelbug.co.in
Reference:
Book : Hampi world Heritage Area, Dr. C.S. Vasudevan.
www.bagalkot.nic.in
www.karnatakatourism.org

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